Section II 

Darjeeling Diaries 

Part 6: Darjeeling ki Sair

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Monday, 19th July, 1993

"Naina?" Sameer knocked on her door. "Naina...so gayi kya?" he repeated.

"Hmmm!" Naina's mumbled response came.

"Arey Naina! Utho. Darwaza to kholo," Sameer repeated as he tapped the door multiple times.

"Sameer!" Naina's sleepy voice sounded through the door, but Sameer didn't relent. Finally, Naina got up from the bed and opened the door. Sameer burst into chortles as he saw her disheveled hair and bloodshot eyes.

"Kya hai Sameer?" Naina muttered, as she rubbed her eyes.

"Darjeeling kya sone aayi ho?" he asked as he tried to pat her hair to normal.

"Sameer, rest to karenge na. Itna lamba safar tha," Naina yawned.

"Kuch bhi? Chalo tayyar ho jao, hum ghumne ja rahe hain," he commanded.

"Ghumne aur abhi? Mujhe nind aa rahi hai. Tumhe nahi sona kya?" Naina protested.

"Nah, ghumne aate hi na meri saari thakaan gayab ho jaati hai. Aur vaise bhi madam, kal ka ek din khaali hai. Fir agle 3 din zyada time nahi milega. Itni door aaye hain to jagah bhi to ghumenge na. Chalo naha lo fatafat. Bahot sara cover karna aaj. Main bahar wait kar raha hun," he said.

Naina knew she had no option. These were the rare times when she regretted having a hyper-active boyfriend.

Twenty minutes later, Naina emerged in a flowery peach kurta, a white churidaar, and a matching white duppatta. She'd paired it with white hoops and a matching cardigan. Though the evening weather was pleasant, it was chilly for Naina. The winters of Ahemdabad were nothing compared to the temperature dips during the rainy season of Darjeeling.

Sameer bit his tongue as he saw her, and then yelped in pain.

"Aur saj-dhaj ke aao. Vaise hi control ki band baji padi hai," he murmured through gritted teeth.

Naina was alarmed, "kya hua?" Sameer didn't respond as he gazed into her kohl lined eyes, and pulled out the ribbon to let her hair loose.

"Ab theek hai!" he winked as he held her hand and led the way. As soon as they were out of their accommodation, Sameer took her to a nearby tea stall, and ordered two steaming hot tea cups for him and Naina, "nind bhaag jayegi!" he elaborated. And then there were times like these when Naina used to feel grateful for a boyfriend like Sameer. He always understood her problems, before she even had to voice them out to him.

Sameer glanced at his watch and then caught a taxi to take them to the Darjeeling railway station. Sameer had already booked their tickets through an agent yesterday. They disembarked from the taxi, just fifteen minutes before the start of their train journey. They comfortably settled themselves on the seats for the famous Darjeeling Joyride.

Sameer started humming, "mere sapnon ki rani kab aayegi tu...aayi rut mastani kab aayegi tu...beeti jaaye zindagani kab aayegi tu...chali aa tu chali aa...!" Naina blushed and started peering out of the windows as the train started. The scenery was unparalleled, much more beautiful than she'd ever seen around their home.

"Sameer, wo dekho," Naina pointed out to a quaint, small mountain cottage and a couple of goats and sheeps grazing on the meadows.

"Dekh hi to raha hun," came the reply. Naina turned to see Sameer's eyes fixated upon her. She blushed again and turned his face towards the window as he chuckled.

Sameer took out his camera as they clicked snaps in the train and tried to capture the picturesue views outside. They were requested by a couple, apparently on their honeymoon to take their pictures together, to which Sameer happily obliged. In turn, the couple clicked a few pictures of Sameer and Naina together. The train did not have rush, partly because of the rainy season and partly because it was the last ride of the evening. Sameer moved from his place and came and settled himself besides Naina. He then put his arm around her as they enjoyed the view outside, all the while trying to inch closer to her.

"Sameer, behave yourself. Log hain aas pass," snapped Naina, a little conscious of his public display of affection. Sameer immediately removed his arm and crossed them in front of him as he sat sulking.

As the train halted at the Ghoom Station, a group of young Bengali and Assamese girls embarked and settled themselves on the seat in front of Sameer and Naina. The girls were constantly chattering in Bengali or Assamese, "khoob darun lagche na?"

Naina couldn't understand a word of either language, till she spotted a few of them gesturing towards Sameer and giggling, batting their eyelids at him.

"How dare they?" she was furious, as Sameer seemed to be returning their smiles.

"Iski aankhein kitni sundar hai na?" Sameer mumbled in Gujarati as he gestured towards one of the girls, who was constantly smiling demurely at him. "Paagal dil ka...kya hai bharosa...aur kisi pe...ye aa jaye...," Sameer started humming again as he eyed the Bengali beauty, a playful smirk on his lips. "Aa gaya to bahot...pachtayegi tu...!" his eyes returned to Naina, as he winked at her. Naina scowled and jerked his hand from the berth and put it back on her shoulders again. The Bengali girl's smile faltered as the group realized that the handsome boy was already taken. Sameer tried his best not to laugh as Naina pulled him still closer to her and continued to stare out of the train window.

Sameer and Naina were awed as the train meandered around at Batasia loop, "jaise magazine mein dekha tha, bilkul vaise na Sameer?" Sameer nodded as he clicked photographs from his camera. The joyride came to an end as the train returned to Darjeeling. As Sameer and Naina got down from the train, the girls laughed again and waved bye to Sameer and Sameer responded with a dreamy bye to them. And as he turned, he was greeted by a pair of fire-breathing eyes.

"Aashiq ko zyada tadpana bhi acha nahi hai," he murmured airily.

"Huh!" Naina strode off into the distance, Sameer on her heels.

They walked towards the Chowrasta, as Sameer tried to cheer up Naina.

"Has do na! Mazak kar raha tha baba. Unmein se koi bhi sundar nahi thi. Bilkul bhi nahi," he pleaded, as Naina stuck her tongue out at him.

It had started to drizzle by now. As they were walking past the shops, Sameer held Naina's hand to stop her. "Chalo!" he took her inside a shop.

"Wo wali shawl dikhayenge?" Sameer requested the shop-keeper. The shop-keeper took down the blue, heavily embroidered shawl out for him to see.

"Tum shawl pehnoge?" Naina whispered sarcastically.

"Haan," he replied. "Ab batao, ye wali achi hai ya ye wali?" he asked as he held out two of his chosen shawls out for her to choose.

"Sameer ye ladies shawl hain!" Naina enlightened him.

"Pata hai jaan. Tumhe kaunsi pasand hai?" Sameer asked.

"Sameer, yeh kaafi mehengi hain. Mere pass itne paise nahi hain," Naina explained.

"Tumhare hone wale pati ke pass hain. Vaise ye blue wali hi best hai," he said as he put the shawl against her face to check which colour suited her more.

"Sameer, iski zarurat nahi hai," Naina pleaded again.

"Zarurat hai, main tumhe thand mein thiturte huye nahi dekh sakta. Aur yahi soch lo, yeh is trip ka gift hai meri side se tumhare liye," he explained as Naina looked on incredulously.

After full fifteen minutes of bargaining, where Naina saw the hitherto-unseen Marwadi side of Sameer, they finally purchased three shawls- one for her and Preeti each, and one for Sameer's mother, after a huge discount of 300 rupees.

"Kya? Aise kya dekh rahi ho? Unhe bhi to pata chale Gujrati kya cheez hote hain," he winked at her.

They continued to stroll across the street, as they brought different artifacts and showpieces. Naina selected a beautiful small golden colored statue of the revered Kamdhenu cow for Nanu. "Isse tarraki hoti hai, business bhi badhta hai!" she explained as he stood impressed at her thoughtfulness.

"Aur maan lo. Kisi ki koi iccha ho. Aur wo chahe ki uski iccha jaldi se puri ho jaye. Khas kar ke jab wo Darjeeling akele aaya ho, apni girlfriend ke saath, uske liye kaunsa totka kaam aata hai?" he whispered in her ear.

"Sabr!" she rolled her eyes at him.

"Kya Naina? Ab to puri azaadi hai. Mood hai, mausam hai par tum bhi na!" Sameer started sulking again.

Naina just smiled. "How should she let him know that she too wanted what he desired for? But then thodi tadap to honi chahiye. After all, good things in life don't come easy."

They brought a few more wooden showpieces for their respective homes. In addition, Sameer selected a leather jacket for himself, and immediately began admiring himself in the mirror.

"Wow Sameer Maheshwari! Tu to stud hi hai!" he gave himself a flying kiss. Naina giggled as she winked in approval. He spent another five minutes adoring himself, while Naina continued to select through different items. "Self-obsessed kahin ka!" she mused.

A few minutes later, Naina pointed out a lighter-like object to him.

"Ye kya hai Naina?" asked Sameer, slightly disconcerted.

"Lighter," she replied coolly.

"Ohh, magar Naina, ab to main cigarette nahi peeta," Sameer replied slowly.

"Acha? Ek mahina pehle jo Munna Pandit ke sath chup ke pi rahe the wo?" she raised her eyebrows as Sameer looked down.

"Wo kabhi kabhi yaar...I'm sorry. Par sach mein roz nahi peeta. Do teen mahine mein ek baar," he accepted guiltily.

Naina clicked the lighter. A flame ignited and danced around, and with it, a soft tinkling music began playing.

Sameer was reminded of the popular song, "abhi na jao chodkar ke dil abhi bhara nahi!"

"Jab bhi cigarette peene ka man ho, to ye lighter jala lena. Tumhe yaad aa jayega koi hai jise khud ki jaan se zyada tumhari fikr hai," she articulated.

Sameer knew he'd disappointed her again. Smoking was a hard habit to curb. A small bout of depression, and it was easy to go back to it. But he won't do it now. Not again! He'd decided he won't need the lighter anymore for smoking, but he would always need it as a reminder of her undying love. Sameer accepted her gift as he held his ear in apology.

"Ab dukhi mat ho. Udaasi tumhare chehre pe suit nahi karti," Naina smiled as she held his hand.

Later, Naina brought a few make-up items for the ladies of the house, as well as some decorative keychains for the men. She brought a small wooden toy for Pralay. Sameer purchased a fridge magnet which said, "I Love Darjeeling!" with scenes of Batasia loop and the toytrain engraved upon it. And then their eyes darted to a pair of crystal glasses, labeled, Mr. Perfect, and Ms. Perfect. They were added to their shopping cart as well. Funnily enough, Sameer had not bargained much with the street vendors. He'd just ensured they were not charging an unreasonable amount. "These people work hard to earn a living and we should help them," he answered in response to Naina's curious gaze.

It was already eight in the night, but it continued to drizzle. Sameer and Naina decided they would have dinner in the market only. Sameer ushered her to a nearby stall, which read "Tibetan momos".

"Momos? Ye kya hota hai? Masahari to nahi?" Naina exclaimed.

"Chill Naina. Dono milta hai veg, non-veg. Maine Nainital aur Dilli mein bahot khaye hain," he explained as he gave their order.

"Do Thukpa, do plate Veg momos. Aur uske baad do plate garam garam maggi...spicy banana bhaiya!" Unlike most of his Gujarati friends, Sameer preferred his meals to be spicy. And over time, Naina had become accustomed to his taste as well.

"Itna sab kaun khayega?" Naina's eyes widened.

Sameer grinned, "main aur meri maina!" The rains had lent an added chill to the night. Naina took out her new shawl and draped it around her shoulders, as the rain pattered onto the tin roof of the stall. Ten minutes later, their soup arrived. Naina tried the Tibetan variety of noodle soup, or Thukpa as it was commonly called there; and with the first sip, she felt warmth creep into her body. They were hardly finished with the soup, when the stall owner handed out two plates of steamed momos. Sameer taught her how to eat them.

"Yeh aise leke is red chutney mein dip karo. Ezay bolte hain ise...teekhi hoti hai bahot. Yeh lo," he held out a momo laced with chutney for her to bite.

As Naina's teeth tore into a piece of the momo, she gasped for breath. The unexpected mix of steam and chillies set fire to her mouth as Sameer grinned.

"Hmm, not bad. Acha hai," Naina contemplated after a minute, and they ended up ordering another plate of the steamed dumplings. Meanwhile, they slurped on the juicy Maggie. It was their full junk-food laden, mountainous dinner. Naina felt there was so much to Sameer that she didn't know till now. She knew he was a foodie, but still, how did he know about so many cuisines and cultures?

"Time would tell", she thought happily.

***

Tuesday, 20th July, 1993

"Yaar Sameer," Naina pulled the blanket over her ears to muffle the sound of knocks on her door. But Sameer continued to tap her door violently. Naina rubbed her eyes as she checked her wrist watch for the time.

"Paune teen? Pagal ho gaya hai kya ye ladka?" Naina thought irritatedly as she pulled the pillow on top of the blanket.

"Knock! Knock!" the taps sounded for the seventh time.

"Uhh!" Naina finally gave up and stormed over to the door, ready to give a piece of her mind to Sameer. She opened the door and snapped, "tumhe sone se kya problem hai Sameer?"

Sameer was still in his pyjamas, "koi problem nahi hai vaise. Chalo sote hain," he said as he tried to enter her room.

"Ek minute!" Naina stopped him. "Kya kar rahe ho?"

"Tumhi ne to bola so jao, to sone ja raha hun," Sameer tried to sound innocent. "Tumhare sath," he added cheekily.

Naina pushed him out of the room. "Teen baj raha hai Sameer. Abhi to bahot time hai subah hone mein," Naina groaned.

"I know dear. And really sorry for this, par chalo mere saath. Maine ek spot ka pata lagaya hai. Wahan se aake so jaana pakka, disturb nahi karunga" he assured her.

Naina sighed, "Okay. Tayyar hoke aati hun," she muttered, still sleepy.

"Fashion show mein nahi jaana. Aise hi chalo," he said. Naina quickly brushed her teeth and washed her face. She quickly ran a comb through her hair and grabbed her shawl and accompanied Sameer.

A few minutes later, they were walking across the paved path across the garden of their hostel. Sameer was taking big steps, while Naina was trying to match his pace. They kept walking till they'd reached Chowrasta again and then Sameer led her towards a place named 'Observatory Hill'. Sameer spoke to the person at the entrance and then a few minutes later, they entered through the wrought iron gates and were again climbing uphill. It was already a quarter to four by then and the environs were beginning to lighten slightly. Sameer looked up at the sky. Thankfully, it wasn't cloudy right now.

Finally as they reached the top of a small hillock, Sameer stood still as he looked out into the distance. Naina clambered up behind him curiously and a minute later, she too stopped in her tracks. The sight which greeted them took their breath away. Sprawling peaks of the Himalayas lay ahead. Sameer's arm involuntarily grabbed Naina's waist as he took in the stunning views Nature had to offer.

"Mt. Kanchenjunga!" Sameer explained as they selected a spot and settled down nearby, awaiting the sunrise.

They seemed to have been one of the first few to arrive, because minutes later, they heard murmurs of other tourists as they all waited with bated breaths for the sunrise. Sameer put an arm around Naina and pulled her closer to him. She felt warm and loved, cocooned in his arms and her head rested against his chest.

Soon, the sky splintered into different colours and the peaks reflected the vivid tinge of the sky.

"Wow!" the word escaped Naina as she saw the first rays of the Sun dancing over on the peaks, illuminating it in hues of pink, then red, then orange and then finally a sparkling golden yellow. "Sameer," she gasped in awe.

He looked at her. "Ab batao. Sona acha hai ya yeh? Haina khoobsurat?" he asked.

Naina nodded, "Thank you!"

Sameer held her tighter in response. "Actually aaj mausam saaf tha. Hum bahot lucky hain ki humein aisa suryauday dekhne ko mila, varna monsoon mein chance bahot kam hota hai. Isliye subah uthaya tumhe," Sameer explained.

"Jis din ki subah itni khubsurat ho, wo din kitna khubsurat hoga?" Naina exclaimed and then overcome with emotion, she closed her eyes and turned her lips towards him. Sameer felt elated to see that Naina wanted to kiss him too. Well, the moment was romantic for sure, but they weren't all alone.

"Uhh hmmm," he cleared his throat and jerked her back into the present. She looked at him in surprise and then his eyes pointed out to the crowd near them. Naina's face flushed with colour as she nuzzled her head against his chest again, and returned her focus back on the glorious view in front of them. By now, the Sun was visible in the horizon and the beauty of the Himalayan range was accentuated by the colour spilling out across it. They waited for some more time, and then a layer of mist wafted over the peaks. The sunrise feast was over and the clouds were back. It was around half past five when Naina and Sameer returned back to their hostels. They caught up on sleep for some more time, before they got ready for the only free day left at their disposal, for their Darjeeling exploration.

The rest of the day was spent in a nearby, lush green tea estate. As they made their way around and across the dwarfed shrubs of tea, they clicked numerous pictures there. Sameer and Naina spent the whole afternoon there in the tea gardens, in the tea processing factory and understood the intricate process of making India's favourite beverage. They even got a chance to pick out a few tea leaves themselves, exactly as the lady workers guided them to. They also took a tour of the colonial cottages around and experienced the vintage style of living in Darjeeling. Sameer and Naina brought several packets of original Darjeeling tea for home. The beautiful evening ended as they sipped cups of one of India's finest long-leaved, homegrown tea, settled on cane chairs on a patio, and witnessed the beautiful tea estates dancing to the rhythm of the rain.

Wednesday, 21st July, 1993

The first day of the Inter-College Literature Festival was deemed to begin at ten that morning. Naina was up and ready in a crisp, beige, printed, silk sari by eight. She then strolled over to Sameer's room and it was her turn to wake him up.

"Sameer, utho tayyar ho jao. Nashta karke nikalna hai!, Naina shouted through the door as she heard his "thoda aur".

"Sameer nau baj gaye hain. Adhe ghante mein pahunchna hai," Naina voiced. A few seconds later the reply came, "nau nahi aath baje hain. Ek ghante baad uthana, please abhi sone do."

What was this boy? When it was time to roam around, sleep seemed so far away from his eyes and now that they had to get ready for the event, he wasn't ready to wake up.

Thankfully due to Naina's persistence, by nine thirty, Sameer and Naina were present at the venue- the auditorium of a resort, barely a kilometer from their accommodation. Sameer was still groggy eyed, and stifling his yawns. He spotted a waiter circulating coffee, and gratefully took what was his third cup this morning.

"Vaise ye perfume acha hai," Naina muttered and Sameer's eyes jerked open.

"Pass aake sungh lo. Tum bolo to roz yahi lagaya karun?" he chimed.

"Ab kaise nind khul gayi?" Naina raised her eyebrows.

"Romance ke liye Sameer ki nind bhi qurbaan hai," he chuckled.

"Aaj event ke baad jaldi jaake so jayenge okay?" she smiled.

"Event ke baad? Utni der kaun rukega? Lunch karke kalti maar lenge," he proposed.

"Sameer tum pagal ho kya? Aise kaise jaa sakte hain?" Naina started her protest.

Sameer ignored her and went over to the registration desk to get his and Naina's names signed. "Ho gaya kaam aaj ka. Bas ab pet puja karenge, aur fir ghumne jayenge!" he winked.

Half an hour later, a welcome note and a series of lectures ensued, none of which helped the fact that Sameer was incredibly sleepy.

"Kya pakau hain yaar? Kahan romance karne ka mood ho raha hai aur kahan ye lecture suna rahe hain," he murmured in her ear. Naina shushed him.

A minute later, Sameer again whispered. "Vaise saree haan? Gazab dha rahi ho. Kise impress karne ka iraada hai?" he teased.

"Formal hai. Isliye pehni hai, yahan skirt pehen ke thodi na aungi?" she snapped back in a whisper.

"Sheh! Mujhe laga mere liye pehni hogi," Sameer acted as if dejected. Naina blushed as Sameer caught her eye and grinned.

At tea time, they, that is, mostly Naina, interacted with a few of the lecturers there. Sameer and Naina introduced themselves to some fellow college students and discussed about their presentations. Sameer's focus was majorly on Naina though and the way her wheatish skin was contrasting with the black colour of her saree blouse. Wasn't the neck deeper than what she usually wore? Not that it would be considered deep by other girls.

"Sameer? Sameer?" Naina's voice boomed as she looked at him, lost in thought.

"Uhh yeah?" Sameer tried to cover up and put his hand out for a Mr. Sanjeev Khanna to shake. He was only twenty six, but already had three best-selling novels to his credit. His favourite genre was crime and he was apparently very impressed with Naina, based on the talk she had with him. To add to it, he was extremely handsome. This was one of the rare occasions when Sameer noticed most of the female gender preferring another man over him.

"Fabulous Mr. Khanna," Sameer sounded cheerfully receptive, though he hadn't registered half of what he'd been talking about. And then he looked imploringly at Naina as he munched on another biscuit, "bachao!"

The post tea-break session began and there were more lectures, and some of the college students they'd just met had come onto the stage to speak about their latest work. All Sameer could do was glance at his watch. "Abhi bhi 15 minute hain lunch mein," he groaned.

"Sameer, control yourself," Naina reprimanded him. Half an hour later, they finally dispersed for lunch. Again, they'd to keep networking. They bumped into a professor from the University of North Bengal, who'd apparently been a classmate of their Prof. Goswami.

"Excellent fellow! Very academically oriented," he voiced, in his accented English. Sameer gave him another of his big, fake smiles, as he dipped his fork into a piece of paneer in his plate. Naina was surprised at how Sameer spoke at length with that professor, knowing fully well that he wasn't interested at all in conversing with him. "A businessman in the making perhaps," she shrugged her shoulders.

Naina made them stay on for an hour after lunch as well. And then she noticed many people taking leave in between. Sameer rolled his eyes at her in an I-told-you-so expression. Ten minutes later, they too had excused themselves out and finally Sameer breathed in the fresh, mountain air.

"Finally! Azaadi boriyat se," his eyes gleamed with vigour as he hailed a taxi to the nearby sight-seeing. They visited the famous Mahakal temple and seeked blessings for their life together from Lord Shiva. They moved onto the temple of Kali Devi and offered prayers there as well. It took Naina a full twenty minutes to recite all the hymns and mantras she remembered and follow the traditional method of worship with flowers, while Sameer just prayed to God to keep his Naina happy. They also visited the nearby Buddhist monasteries, including the Japanese Peace Pagoda. The trademark colourful Buddhist prayer wheels and flags were a new sight for both Sameer and Naina. Sameer even purchased one set of prayer flags for himself and decided he'll adorn his bike with it back in Ahemdabad.

Thursday, 22nd July, 1993

This day was the most hectic one, for both Sameer and Naina. It was the day they were supposed to speak out on their topics in front of such a wide and esteemed audience. Naina was the opening speaker. Since last night and all through the morning today, she'd been complaining of anxiety in her stomach. Samer kept trying to calm her down, though he had to admit- he was tense too. Naina kept telling Sameer that she felt as if butterflies were fluttering in her stomach and then Sameer reassured her that would be the case when he would finally kiss her.

"Mazak soojh raha hai tumhe?" she uttered as she gulped another glass of water. When her turn came, Naina's eyes searched for Sameer in the audience. She saw his wide smile and his thumbs-up, and it was then that she felt confidence ooze back into her nerves. As usual, Naina had the audience spell-bound by her talent- how while writing a story, the perspective mattered. How the chose of words, the narration, the attention to detail had the capacity to take the writing to a whole new level as well as keep the reader intrigued. Her speech was greeted by a loud applause and a clandestine, flying kiss from Sameer.

Post lunch was Sameer's turn to get jittery.

"Yaar Naina, Cancel kara dete hain na. Kya pata chalega Goswami sir ko? Keh denge time kam tha to mera slot cut ho gaya."

"Chup karo. Subah mujhe to bada gyaan de rahe the. Khud pe kuch applicable nahi hai kya?" she rapped.

"Yaar," Sameer groaned. He felt as if his stomach was falling into a deep abyss.

"Sameer, ek lambi saans lo."

Sameer obliged and took in a deep breath.

She turned him to face her, "mere liye?"

And those words suddenly left him feeling strangely soothed. He smiled and nodded slightly as his name was announced. He went upto the stage and took the mike. His eyes set on Naina, he took out the paper on which he'd prepared his speech and poetry. He looked back at her again as he crumpled the paper and kept it back in his pocket and started his speech with panache, "meri aaj ki kavita kisi khaas ke liye hai!" Naina smiled in surprise.

Sameer continued with his poetry, his eyesfinding their way back to her. His impromptu rhymes left Naina and the audiencespellbound. "Who could've gussed this guy wanted to back out of the competitionjust a few minutes before?" wondered Naina. Well, love could make you crossmountains. And this was but a competition. 

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So, how did you guys find this update? 

PS: I've never been to Darjeeling, but it is one of the destinations on my bucket list. All the information is solely based on the internet, travel blogs and so on, so kindly excuse me if there is a mistake here. 

Overall, do vote and comment if you liked this one. Waiting for your views!